copesetic
I’ve kissed mermaids, rode the el niƱo.
wave
everything is fine when you’re livin’ in the ci-tah

so i’ve been in india for a few weeks now. i’ve already mentioned the bats, but now a few words about the people. first, there are so many of them. it’s impossible to go anywhere in bangalore at any time without encountering like a thousand people. people hanging out of buses. people climbing into trains through windows. people riding small motorcycles 4 or 5 at a time. one billion people is no joke. second, i’d say about half the people i’ve interacted with speak english. but of that half the majority speak what anna and i call indlish. i’m no pro at english (or even american) but i figure there has to be a different word for english spoken at such a rate.

arch
hampi

what’s more, when i’m listening to the radio or watching television i concentrate to follow the speed and thick accent. suddenly i’m lost and trying really hard to get back into it only to realize that they’ve been speaking hindi. but like anywhere else yes, no, pointing, and using my fingers to sign numbers gets me through most any situation. and, lastly, of course, i will echo the typical guide book phrasing (about every country) and say that the people are kind and warm-hearted.

rice_field
pillars

the majority of my time has been spent in bangalore. i’ve never spent so much time in a single foreign city before. anna’s work has put us up in a guest house on the edge of the city. there are no tourists and most of the meals we eat we cook in the kitchen. it’s been pretty interesting settling down so much in a foreign city. the internet cafe guy knows me. the vegetable seller guy knows me. the rickshaw drivers have stopped arguing with me about using the meter. it’s an interesting experience. this past weekend, however, anna and i took a trip up north a bit to a town called hampi. around hampi are the ruins of vijayanagar which was the capital of one of the hindu empires back in the 14th century. it was a really enjoyable trip. we wandered around the ruins, encountered a pack of wild monkeys (actual wild, not the “wild” monkeys which hang around tourist attractions and urban areas trying to steal you chips and glasses), and watched the sun set over the rice fields. the hostel style guest house we stayed in was across the river from hampi and everyday we had to be ferried over and back in little circular, bambo boats along side of bathing water buffalo. quaint.

stone_wall
bright_beetle
reservoir

originally, we were to leave bangalore the previous weekend to see a festival for the goddess durga (kali) in a city to the south called mysore. but. that was the same weekend that i got the flu and spent the entire time watching tv and remembering the last asian flu i got and again convincing myself that i didn’t have malaria. a couple words about indian television. they will put anything on tv here. so far i’ve seen a game show where a blindfolded kid was asked to finds books in a bookstore, a musical which appeared to be a period piece set in ancient india but which also had a scene where everyone was dancing around a 3 1/2″ diskette, and last but not least, that movie where arnold schwarzenegger gets pregnant.

valley
cow_and_bird
monkeys

oh. i also saw this movie. um … what? anyways, speaking of george bush. i’m voting today. by what seems to be a bona fide christmas miracle,

ruins

my absentee ballot made it to me (the addresses here are wicked confusing). but then again, maybe i shouldn’t be surprised. there’s about 800 million dieties in hinduism, surely there must be one that’s dedicated to delivering ballots to voters who, to quote kodos, wish to go ahead and throw their vote away. on the ballot is a non-binding question about whether or not i think a (presumably) unelected entity should be in charge of voter districting. call me a sentimental, anti-entrepreneurial cynic, but i think i’ll miss the days when i got to vote for the person who jerrymanders. i’ve had my ballot for a couple weeks now but am only sending it today. it has 10 days to get back to cambridge for it to “count.” like i always say, why put off ’til tomorrow what you can put off ’til next week.

vijayanagar
voting
a dosa, a ballot, and a crossword
run! get to the choppa!

the bats here are enormous. like indiana jones style enormous.

pond
orchid
beetle
spider
ants
‘cuz i’m free as a bird now

well, i’ve finally left patagonia. my last stop was a ski resort town in the lake district of argentina. it’s extremely beautiful, and very popular for camping, especially for argentinians. however, i only did one hike. partly because i was still relaxing after all the trekking i did in the south, but mainly because every night went until sunrise as most everyone you meet in bariloche is on vacation from buenas aires and extremely interested in hanging out with the gringo backpackers. maybe i didn’t hike as much as i should of, but i’ve now got tons of spanish practice and friends in buenas aires. and i’ve found that after a couple beers i can roll my r’s like they’re going out of style.

on my last day, however, i was able to wake up early enough to try paragliding for the first time.

wow.

welcome to the hotel patagonia

many people said that there would be no way i could make it out of puerto natales, a city in the very southernmost province chile, to bariloche, a city in the very northmost argentinian patagonian province. namely it was every bus ticket agent that assured me it was impossible to make it as far as i wanted in less than a couple weeks. so, i just kept booking trips on the earliest available bus in the direction i was heading, deciding that i would hitchhike before staying more than a day in the various uninspiring bus hubs of southern argentina.

after 5 different bus trips over the course of 2 and a half days i finally made my escape from the end of the world. and it was quite the journey, to say the least. the number of foreign travelers on these bus was extremely low, i was often the only one. as such every leg was delayed by a half hour as dozens of families prevented the bus from leaving before they finished saying goodbye to their son or daughter going back to school. then there were my layovers in such cities as trelew, a welsh settlement with a memorial for some guy named chuck jones with his hand extended ready to slap somebody five, 28 de noviembre, argentina appears to be completely obsessed with naming things after dates, and rio turbio, a small border town with graffiti endorsing arnold schwarzenegger for governor of california.

here we go again

i just returned from 4 days hiking/camping by myself in torres del paine national park in chile. i’ve found that whenever i’m hiking by myself i’ll get songs stuck in my head for an hour or so at a time. unfortunately the song is usually “mamma mia”. double unfortunately - i only know the chorus.

tree
patagonian tree
lake
base of the torres del paine
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